Once-in-a-lifetime encounters and a sense of scientific purpose colour Ben Olsen’s memorable expedition to the end of the earth.
A welcome committee awaits as the Zodiac nears Breakwater Island, a snow-capped outcrop only a short hop from the Antarctic mainland. Shadowy figures line the shore as further crowds congregate on higher ground. We draw closer and — now a few days into this expedition and armed with some ornithological basics — I recognise the orange…
