Whether deep fried, grilled or poached in acqua pazza, there’s nothing like the subtle, gently rich flavour of red mullet. But always cook it on the bone, warns Tom Parker Bowles, as filleting a fish this fine is plain rude.
‘There is nothing more beautiful than a dying mullet,’ sighed that great Roman Stoic, Seneca. ‘In the very struggle of its failing breath for life, first a red, then a pale tint suffuses it. And, between life and death, there is a gradation…
