The B&B options at the Beckford Arms in Wiltshire have always been lovely. Now, though, they include something really rather incredible: a Grade I-listed arch that was built as the gateway for a Georgian estate. Mark Hedges paid a visit.
Wiltshire feels ancient: Huge fields gently roll across the downs punctured by burial mounds and great henges. It is a place many of us, depending on the traffic, flash or trudge past in our cars on the A303 on the way to Cornwall, but…